Related to my other post, just wanted to verify the location of this sensor with all of you knowledgeable about such things.

I was told by the dealer is was driver side, upstream = bank 2 sensor 1

Is this correct?

Thanks!

 

slipp3h, the "drivers side" of the engine is the side of the engine nearest the radiator. Remember, the engine sits sideways in the car, so the flywheel is near the driver's side wheel, not inline with the firewall.

As for sensor #1, that is the upstream sensor. Sensor #2 is the one downstream of the cat. So, in your case, you will need to open the hood. From there, remove the intake tubing going to the engine. Now remove the bottom half of the air filter box. If you look where the air filter box was, you will see the exhaust manifold there. You will see the O2 sensor right there. That is the one you need to replace.

if you need help with getting the O2 sensor out, let me know.

 

Thanks for the help thermo. I ended up taking it to a jaguar speciality shop, if I had some free time coming up I'd do it myself, but for only $80 in labor it wasn't too bad. Even they weren't 100% positive of the location, so it helped to have you explain it and confirm what the dealer said.

 

My 1995 jaguar xj vp. Is cranking but takes at least4-5second of holding key to start i replaced the fuel filter,crank sensor and new wires,checked the converters please if anyone knows what to try, help!

 

Just a quick guide I made since this gets asked a lot

jaghelp.com: X-type heater oxygen sensor codes: P0031, P0032, P0037, P0038, P0051, P0052, P0057, P0058, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0137, P0138, P0140, P0151, P0152, P0153, P0157, P0158, P0160, P1646 and P1647

 

hi there im having difficulty with 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 has come up as faulty on diagnostics from garage eml on the garage was very kind to reset code to get thru mot but is now back on and running a little rough! They have said due to age of car it might be very labour intensive and very hard to get to so really need to sort myself! Any ideas to help me ? Iv been on Google but cant really find what im looking for

 

Grove, like stated above, remove the air box from the car and if you look there, you will see the O2 sensor. I also HIGHLY!!!! recommend getting an O2 sensor removal tool like: . These are superior over the ones that look like they took a socket and cut a hole in the side. TRUST ME!!!!! I would also recommend accessing the O2 sensor and giving it a really good squirt of PB BLaster, letting it sit 15-20 minutes and then hitting it again before putting the tool on the sensor. This will help eat away some of the rust and make removing the sensor easier.

WHen you buy a new sensor, get one with the plug already attached. Yes, they are a few dollars more, but if you look here, you wlll find tons of horror stories about people trying to save a few bucks, having tons of trouble and most end up getting the one wth the plug already attached in the end.

Also note you will find that there are O2 sensors and then there are O2 sensors that are also "A/F sensors". You want the A/F sensor version. THe upstream sensor measures your air to fuel mixture and regulates the engine. Do not think you can cheat, save a few bucks and get just the O2 sensor. You wil also note that the plastic of the plugs is different colors between the upstream and downstream sensors. If you get the same color plastic, then you have the correct style sensor.

 

From experience the best bet is to go online and Google: Denso DOX-0430. You can also do this on eBay or other auction sites. That is a genuine and exact sensor to suit your purposes.

 

Thermo's suggestion above is exactly what we did last weekend when we needed to replace this sensor. However our Denso sensor is a different one than the one referenced one reply up from this one, our research showed we needed a 4-wire Denso 234-9029 for the upstream front of car Bank 2, Sensor 1). Amazon was the least expensive option at the time for around $99.

To add to what Thermo said, yes remove the entire airbox but the front intake horns can stay installed (they "un-slot" out of the airbox). remove the small metal bracket under the wiring under the airbox (what the airbox lower piece mounts in to), it's three bolts/screws/nuts, it'll be in the way otherwise if you have non-dainty hands.

Then definitely use a little PB Plaster or similar around the old O2 sensor. Then if you get the sensor socket (we used the one Thermo recommended) you will wonder how it will fit with the heat shield in the way. It won't, the hole is o2 sensor sized plus a little bit and the socket is much larger. I couldn't easily remove the heatshield so using a long prybar I gently pushed/collapsed the heatshield in to deform it around the sensor allowing the socket to get in there (don't worry, read on). You will need an extension and a flex head ratchet or similar and maybe a U-joint to loosen the 02 sensor, the angle is weird if you don't remove a bunch of other stuff. However after PB Blasting it, it was easy to loosen. Once loose, somehow get your hand down there and undo it by hand and then remove the plug from under the car.

Putting the new sensor in is the reverse, just take care and figure out a way to get your hand back down there and thread it in, I had to try several angles, I think in the end I came in from over the engine instead of over the radiator. Somehow it worked out and my fingers were able to thread it in and then tighten down with the special socket and ratchet.

Note that the Denso o2 sensor referenced includes a little tube of copper paste for the threads. Use it but don't get it on the sensor part.

For the heatshield I had a small pick that is at a 90 degree angle, gently using that to pull the heatshield back out from the manifold was easy, just work around the sensor and pull in about five or six different spots. It'll make sense when you look at it.

Then plug the sensor in, zip-tie the wire away from the water pump pulley/belt, and in our case after a few drives the check engine light went out by itself; for some reason the car refused our code reader's demand to reset the codes this time.

 

Well done. If it is a Denso, you probably have the correct one. Other model cars have the same sensor, so different part numbers. I was sent one from a UK sales mob which was a Bosch, and they said it was a correct alternative. I installed it, the light went out and a few days later came back on. I ordered a Denso from another site and got the correct one, even though the part number was different. The DOX-0430 one is a part number that has worked for me.

 

Can confirm what Yorta says. I had a thread on here earlier in the year about the same thing. We swapped the two upstreams for aftermarkets (not cheap ones) and the EML came straight back on.
After trying various things we replaced with oem Densos and job sorted. Very labour intensive lesson learned. Apparently the X type has a very low tolerance of mix ratio readings.